Friday, March 28, 2008

Skull Caps, Fouls, and Bricks

This morning I took the boys over to a great park near our house that includes Basketball courts, a large playground, and tons of grass to run in and trees to climb. We went there so I could play basketball with a large group that plays every Friday and so the boys could run free for a few hours.
Playing basketball here is definitely a unique experience. Nevermind the Hebrew instead of English or the fact that this court is located right on the same location as the "Road of the Patriarch's" that was used 4000 years ago as the Patriarch's of Israeli history walked from Haran down to the Negev desert. Also forget the fact that the players use a blend of international rules and American streets rules. The unique thing for me is playing alongside orthodox Jews who still find a way to wear their tallit (Prayer shawl under their shirt that has tassels hanging out) and their Kippas, or their skull caps (black kippas that Orthodox usually wear under their black rimmed hats). In addition to the clothes, it is not everyday that I play basketball with people named Ephraim, Mordecai, Yacov, Abraham, and Yeshu. Most of these people have lived in Israel most of their lives but many have family from New York so when they speak English it is a bit like being on the set of Seinfeld or hearing commentary on the game from Woody Allen.
The level of talent on the court is definitely lower than what I would see in California but it is decent and at the very least it is fun to play. There are a lot of fouls, too many traveling violations that are not called, and many bricks thrown (not literally... get with the Basketball lingo) but it provides a nice 2 hour break from routine in this city. The boys love the opportunity to just run and explore for a while and I enjoy further immersion into another side of the Jewish culture that you can't find in books. My only question is what kind of basketball player would Jesus have been?

Monday, March 24, 2008

Jesus is Alive!

This last week was a reminder of why being here this year is a good thing. Palm Sunday was definitely one of the coolest things I have done in my entire life. Singing and celebrating Jesus with 10,000 (give or take) believers was absolutely incredible. It wasnt like being in a big theatre singing along with a talented worship leader either (which would be fun). It was spontaneous and it was celebrating Christ coming into Jerusalem basically on the same path that he took. Plus it was dozens of different languages all lifting up at the same time. I couldn't imagine much better aside from heaven itself. Just awesome.

Easter also was incredible - You just dont need a big program when you are in this city - it speaks for itself. Like Ryan said, we went to the Garden tomb for our Easter service this year. The Garden tomb is directly across the street from the Damascus gate, which is the where the Arab market and Muslim quarter of the Old City is located. This is also the site of a stabbing of a rabbi just days before (he was not killed). It is hard to express the range of emotion that Jerusalem evokes in me. But Easter morning I walked past the Arab vendors and the reminders of the endless conflict, and turned the corner toward the Garden Tomb. We were a bit late and I could hear rising up out of the walled garden courtyard, hundreds of voices singing the hymn "Jesus is Alive!" I immediately began crying (my hankie toting mother would be proud) as I thought YES! Jesus is Alive! He did come to Jerusalem and he is still here and he is alive and well! Somehow in the midst of this broken and hurting city Jesus is Alive. Somehow despite the struggle that this world is immersed in, Jesus is Alive! Yes I hurt for those who are struggling. I am saddened by world and church politics, by the state of the environment, by poverty and by war. I hurt for my dear friends who have lost loved ones, who are struggling with cancer, who have children who are sick... But on Easter I am reminded that Jesus is Alive!! God Almighty is Alive and Well. He loves us with a fierce and Living Love. He has overcome death and he gives hope and he gives light in the midst of so much darkness. Easter is a good reminder for me. And celebrating Him here in this place was more meaningful than I ever could have imagined. And not just because it is Jerusalem where he died and rose again. But because this year I have become more aware of the worlds, and my own brokenness and our need for a living Savior. This year in Jerusalem has brought me low and yet Christ is all the more lifted up. I am happy to shout with all those in the garden that Jesus is Alive!

Sunday, March 23, 2008

O Happy Day

Easter Sunday 2008
6:00 AM All three boys woke up because it is light outside. No other reason whatsoever.
6:15 AM Boys remember that it is Easter, they find their Easter baskets that Sara made out of old cereal boxes and filled with candy that came with my parents and one other package.
7:00-8:00 AM My 5 year old and I make "Easter Egg- Colored Pancakes". We eat them with Honey-Date-Middle Eastern Syrup and coffee made in a French Press.
9:00 AM Leave to the "Garden Tomb" to celebrate Easter. The English service was at 6:00AM and 9:30AM today and naturally 9:30 won our vote. (The Garden Tomb is where Protestants prefer to remember Christ's resurrection because it is a tomb outside in a beautiful garden and no church or altars can be found covering the site. Archaeology does give much stronger evidence to the tomb being in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and not at this site, but this is a great place for church).
10:30 AM Our service ends after amazing worship and a simple message. No dramas, no videos, no special music. Just singing, a simple message recalling the events surrounding Easter, some prayers, and then we leave.
11:00- 3:00 PM We relax at home with the boys. We have two neighbors stop by bringing Purim baskets. (It is customary to give gifts during the Jewish Holiday of Purim. It was really nice to have two neighbors think of our boys and give them gifts... keep kicking stones!) During this time the boys also filled tons of plastic eggs with candy while Sara prepared food for an Easter BBQ in the park. I just sat around eating chocolate bunnies and Peeps.
3:30 We went to the park near our house that overlooks the Old City of Jerusalem. We met two friends who are staying with us from California and 4 others who are living here in Jerusalem.
4:00- 6:30 PM We enjoyed Easter dinner with others who believe in the hope of the Risen Messiah while watching the afternoon sun warm the walls of the city of Jerusalem. Meanwhile the Arab kids swam in the fountain nearby and the Arab families relaxed and picnicked in the same park. (Jewish families prefer other parks... don't try to analyze it). Also during this time we hear fireworks erupting as all of the Jewish people celebrate Purim.
7:30-8:00 PM We attempt to unwind the boys and get them to sleep.
8:30-10:00 PM I walk through the old city with one of our guests and we marvel at the spectacle of Purim. To read more about this and to see a video from this night check my other site here

As I look back at this year’s Easter I will remember a few things (in no particular order). 1) My oldest son singing songs from the morning worship time all throughout the day. At night he said his favorite part of the day was singing worship songs. 2) The joy on my middle son’s face when he woke up in the morning and remembered what day it was. Then making pancakes with him in wonderful shades of red, blue, and green. 3) Sitting with family and friends on the grass while eating Easter dinner with the Old City of Jerusalem looming in the background. 4) Watching my boys search for Easter eggs in the park we play in each week. 5) Worshipping with my wife, our boys, and friends from here in Jerusalem and singing “Jesus is no longer in the grave” and thinking about the first Easter and how this song would have sounded then!

So we began the day and spent most of the day celebrating the life that Jesus brings. We sang "He Lives" and "Happy Day" and rejoiced in the hope Jesus brings. We rejoiced in a city that offers perhaps more diversity than any other place on earth; in a place where people fight daily and where simple conversations become political conversations. But it is in this city that Jesus came and died and it is here that he rose again. It is this city where the original message of hope began and where it continues today. Today we rejoiced in our Savior and I rejoiced even more when I thought that people in every corner of the world rejoiced with us. The only thing that was strange for us was thinking about next year. It is really going to be difficult to top this.

Friday, March 21, 2008

Out of Town

We are out of town for a few days while we relax on the shores of the Red Sea. We will return to Jerusalem in time to celebrate Easter (which coincides this year with the Jewish Holiday of Purim).
We will give more details about Purim and our Easter celebration later this week but for now this break is a nice one. Things in Jerusalem between the Jewish community and the Muslim community are definitely experiencing a renewed dose of energy so getting away is always nice. I was thinking about the joyous Palm Sunday celebration this week and how while that was occurring several hundred Jews held and anti-Palestinian rally (On the hill where the High Priest Caiaphas reportedly decided to kill Jesus). During the rally they stormed the neighborhood where the gunman from the shooting two weeks ago lived and they attempted to tear down his house. The following day a Rabbi was stabbed outside the Muslim Quarter of the Old City. It is amazing that during the intense hatred and fighting between two sides, the Prince of Peace was being honored and worshipped by thousands from all around the world.

Sunday, March 16, 2008

The Triumphant Entry

Today we took our family of 5 and two friends from America and headed to the top of Mount of Olives in Jerusalem to participate in the annual procession commemorating the day that the Bible describes Jesus entering Jerusalem from Bethany, over the Mount of Olives, and into the city of Jerusalem. It began as what appeared to be a fairly small group of people making the walk and turned into a parade of thousands of people (over 10,000?) from nearly every country in the world all marching down the hill carrying palm branches, and celebrating the fact that the Messiah Jesus is the God who saves and He did enter this city. As our family and friends joined the crowd we walked casually towards the old city of Jerusalem, up the same hills that Jesus and his disciples walked so many years ago. We had the sound of voices shouting and singing "Hosana" and we saw dancing and rejoicing in the Good News of the Savior.

No words can really describe the joy that was evident this day so I will do my best with the following observations.
1. The sounds of dozens of languages and the presence of literally hundreds of different ethnic groups gave a true picture of the Body of Christ and a glimpse into Heaven. Every tribe and every language was present as we worshiped our King.
2. Standing on the East side of the city is the "Golden Gate" that traditionally is believed to be the gate that the Jewish Messiah will enter through on way to the temple. It was the gate in existence in the time of Christ and would be the likely gate he entered from the Mount of Olives. Currently the temple mount is under jurisdiction of the Muslims and therefore this gate has been filled in with bricks so that the Messiah will not be able to enter. As we walked towards the city and saw the gate before us, my wife and I said that it was too late. The bricks can't stop the Messiah from entering... he already came in!
3. As we walked, hundreds of Israeli soldiers stood by in an attempt to provide protection for the crowd. At first I thought how they must have looked a bit like the Roman Soldiers who probably stood by and watched these people run out to celebrate a Messiah. Then I wondered what they were thinking, I really cannot explain how much joy was obviously in the place today so I wondered how they viewed this. This must be such a welcomed relief to the "action" that these police and soldiers face each week. It also must be a cause for wonder as they saw a united and a joyful group of people from all over the world getting along because of the work of the "Prince of Peace".
4. I don't know how my family will be able to experience these days once we return to America. This year we are blessed to have been in Bethlehem for Christmas and in Jerusalem for Palm Sunday, Good Friday, and Easter. I know the location doesn't make this experience more "spiritual" than anywhere else, but being able to head the Old City of Jerusalem to celebrate Jesus with thousands of people is hard to beat.

Allow me to end this short post by encouraging all of you to celebrate what Jesus did this week. Whatever you can do, try to see this season in new light and do not simply go through the motions of experiencing the magnitude of what happened during this week so many years ago. And remember that that are literally millions others from all over the planet that believe the same things you do and who want to celebrate the king as well.

Wednesday, March 12, 2008

1 Minute of Glory

This is a selfish moment for me so bear with me. One of my Jerusalem photos is currently on the L.A. Times web-site under "The World Observed". You can check it out here and you can even vote for it to be displayed as the best of for the week.
Before you get too impressed (mom) just know that anyone can submit a photo... but it did get voted as the best photo by someone just after it was submitted so at least one other person likes it.

Monday, March 10, 2008

Good Things

Martha Stewart is one of my heroes (jail time not counted). I have not read a Martha Stewart Living magazine since leaving the states in October, and thought I would do my own "ode to Martha" by writing a list of "good things" for which she is famous. Of course I am also writing this list because I realize that the last couple entries have been a little deep and depressing and I would like to point out some of the upsides to living in the middle east (lest our friends start to think there aren't any).

1. Despite the violence and never-ending cycle of prejudice, oppression, and retribution in Israel, there are moments where I am actually encouraged. The countries of Jordan and Egypt are both working to promote peace here and are doing a good job in my opinion of supporting both Jews and Arabs. There are people of all backgrounds and religions here who want to live side by side. Sometimes it seems as though they are a minority here, but I am thankful for them.

2. The chance to gather together with other believers each week is a VERY good thing. This past Saturday, while I sat in church, the fears and anxiety and hopelessness I had felt the day before disappeared. We were able to collectively lift the country up to God and call on Him to restore and to bring mercy. We heard about the Iraqi children who would receive surgery by Jewish doctors here. We were informed of the bake sale next week to raise funds for needy lebanese families up North. It reminded me of our greater calling to seek God and to take care of those who need it and to let God carry our burdens.

3. The Month of March here in Israel is a dream come true for hard-core holiday lovers such as myself. As if getting to celebrate leap day at the end of February were not enough, March is full of festivities to enjoy and exploit to my hearts content. There is the ides of March, and then Palm Sunday. Then we get to wear green and eat cabbage on the 17th. Good Friday is not a celebratory day but a day to remember none the less. Then Easter weekend falls on the same weekend as the Jewish holiday Purim. So our family will go to synagogue on Saturday, dressed in costumes and clacking our noisemakers while remembering the story of Esther. Then on Sunday we will go to a sunrise service near the old city, and picnic in the park and look for easter eggs, while the Jews in the city also picnic (and apparently recover from hangovers...but more on Purim later). I believe holidays are nearly always Good Things and will write more on Easter and Purim as the month goes on.

4. But first one more thing about Purim...I learned about a Purim tradition from my neighbors yesterday that I believe is a very VERY good thing. In the book of Esther, when (the bad guy) Haman sends out the decree to kill all the Jews in Persia, he collectively singled out Jews for evil. When Esther brought the plan to light and the King retracted the decree, all Jews were collectively saved. From that Jews have come to the concept (at least at Purim) that "we rise together, and we fall together," and make a special effort to give to the poor during that week. They also give out baskets, called "Mishloach Manot" (translated "sending portions" or "manna delivery" ) which basically means making sure that everyone has their needs provided for and everyone is able to celebrate the Purim feast. So everyone goes around giving baskets of food and goodies to friends and neighbors as well as to those in need during Purim. There is much more to this but if you want more info you can always do a google search (I am fond of those!).

5. Our recent trip to Egypt was a good thing. It got a little overshadowed by the violence that has been going on here in Israel. Our family needs to leave Israel every three months to renew our visa and so in a way are forced to see a bit of the world. In Egypt we were able to ride on camels with the sahara as our backdrop, see the pyramids and sphinx of Giza, take a sunset felucca (sailboat) ride on the Nile, and visit the Egypt museum. At the museum I was able to come face to (mummified) face with Ramses II, who incidentally knew Moses over 3000 years ago. I was also able to haggle my heart out at the Khan al Khalili market which is always sort-of fun and also sort-of exhausting.

So there you have it. Ryan just commented from the couch that I must be writing a report. But I don't consider it a bad thing that I have a lot to write in a post entitled "Good Things."

Friday, March 7, 2008

Interesting Timing

Last night while I wrote yesterday's blog about the abundance of guns here in Jerusalem, someone entered a Yeshiva school (a Jewish Religious School) and killed eight teenage boys. I received the news this morning from some of you who were concerned about what happened.
Although the school is fairly close (3 miles?) we were not aware of the incident and with the exception of an even greater military presence in the city, we do not feel the effects of this tragedy.

I will leave you with the words from a Chief Rabbi who spoke at the memorial services today,

"We will not be cruel at this hour when we are faced with such a wide crisis, and we will rise up to cast away strife; to further increase torah study."

If this attitude prevails, hope is on the horizon.

Thursday, March 6, 2008

יש לך כלי נשק

Today I walked with the boys to the post office to pick up a package from a friend (Thanks Patricia) and as usual, when we got to the door of the post office I was asked by the security guard if I was carrying a gun. You must understand something about Israel. When you are asked this it is not because you will be in trouble if you say you are, it is just so the guard knows and in some cases so he can hold it for you when you go inside. This is the case in every restaurant, the mall, school, and every museum that you visit in Jerusalem.

It is strange how these things seem so normal to me now. Give me 5 minutes on any street in Jerusalem and I will show you at least one person that has a gun tucked into his/her pants. Give me 30 seconds and I will show you an Israeli soldier carrying a gun and a backpack as he/she returns home or head back out to active duty. Many security guards carry Uzzis (like the security at Hebrew University) and every school field trip requires that an armed guard accompany the students.

Before coming here I looked in the Hebrew phrase book and laughed when I saw phrases like "Could you please move your gun" (For when someone's rifle is blocking your way), or "Where is the bomb shelter" (shelters are also required of every building). Now I realize that it is possible to use those phrases in normal life.

All of this to say, this is life in Jerusalem. The metal detectors and the "bag-searches" that we must undergo to enter public buildings are not inconvenient, they are re-assuring. The soldier sitting next to me with his gun is not intimidating, it is comforting. The person asking me if I have a weapon is not strange, it is routine. The question is how quickly will all of this feel like it is world's apart once we return to America?

Monday, March 3, 2008

The Jerusalem Church

Saturday here in Israel is probably my favorite day of the week. Even with all of the inconveniences of the entire city being shut down in honor of the Sabbath we have still managed to create a routine that I look forward to. Each Saturday morning we get the boys somewhat clean and we all head out the door to our church. The streets are empty of cars and families can be seen carrying their prayer shawls and their "tefflin" as they return home from the Synagogue. For the first few moments we fit with the crowd as our dark hair, dark eyed family walks the streets just as everyone else. Then, in a moment we blow our cover as we hail a taxi (forbidden on Sabbath) and head off to church.
The ride to church costs us 25 shekels a week ($7) which I figure is what it would cost us to drive to church in America with the current price of gas. On our ride we usually have an Arab driver so we begin the day with small talk about the weather and whatever else we can communicate through the language barriers. 10 minutes later we arrive at church, get out of our taxi in an extremely Jewish neighborhood and walk into the "Baptist House".

To get an idea of what our church is like I thought I would tell you about our day yesterday.

We arrived around 11:00 AM and my boys ate lunch as they waited for their class to begin. One church member was sitting outside and praying with one of our regular attending "homeless" guys who was making up a great story about his life. We finished eating and I sent my kids into their class which usually begins sometime between 11:00 and 12:15. After dropping them off I looked through the glass doors into our "sanctuary" and see one of our friends' kids standing in the aisle playing with a sword. (Kids are not a distraction to anyone at this church). I just laughed as I thought how the ushers in American churches would have handled this boy with a sword.
As I stepped inside church one of our refugees from Sudan was sharing about an update on the conditions in their hometown. (We have several Sudanese regulars in our church and an ongoing ministry to refugees). After he shared we heard from another one of our regulars who leads a ministry that takes kids from Iraq and brings them to Israel for life saving heart surgery. Yes. Doctors from Israel provide life saving medical care to kids from Iraq! Then our guest speaker (who is a Bible professor here in Israel) got up and shared from her heart. The bulk of her message was a reading of a message that a priest gave at his 50th anniversary of ministry. The message was about how living in Jerusalem changed his theology and radical shaped his relationship with God.
Just like every week when the message is over, our Senior Pastor goes to the front and shares how the message effected him. He never preaches because it is not his gift so he allows others to teach. He suffers from Parkinson's Disease so he moves slowly and cautiously but has a very sincere demeanor and always drives home the point. Then we end with a song with the words projected with an overhead projector on a white wall. During the one song I see Sasha, our homeless man from Russia who always cleans up after the service (and who had a snowball fight with my 5 year old), worshiping with his hands raised. I see a family of 12 singing behind a young couple who are both Doctoral candidates here. I see Jewish believers, Palestinian Christians, students from all over the world, and life long Jerusalem residents who have learned to follow Jesus in a land that resists it.
The service ends and then the entire church spends 1- 1 1/2 hours standing on the front lawn talking while the kids run through the crowds of people. Once the crowds thin, I gather the family and we begin the slow walk home while stopping at the park. We arrive home sometime between 4-5 PM tired but glad for a day of rest in worship, in real friendships, and in simply being together.
Yesterday I thought about the day and truly felt blessed. We are a completely unorganized church and no one cares. We are the most diverse church I have seen and it feels natural. We have a Senior Pastor who doesn't preach. We have refugees, missionaries, students, retirees, homeless people, writers, Jews, Baptists, Catholics, Arabs, and even Anglo-Saxons! We don't have great music and we seldom hear amazing teaching but this feels more like a church than anything I have ever seen. Best of all, we have kids playing in the aisles with swords.

Saturday, March 1, 2008

A wish for peace

Today in Gaza was one of the bloodiest days of "battle" between the Hamas militants there and the Israeli government since Hamas took over Gaza last June. I am sure that most of the world is aware of this conflict. Hamas has been shooting missiles into Israeli neighborhoods and Israel has retaliated by shooting at those responsible. This has gone back and forth almost daily since we arrived in Israel in October. Many innocent civilians on both sides but in Gaza in particular, have been injured in this process. Today a baby was killed, a baby like our little Ben.

Living in the Middle East has been an education to say the least. I told Ryan today that this is probably the worst POSSIBLE place to bring our family on a sabbatical year - if rest is what we seek. This is not a place to find rest, or peace. The conflict between the Jews and the Palestinians is palpable. Aside from terrorism, which shows no respect for the innocent, I can see validity to every side. When I walked through Yad Vashem, the Holocaust museum here, I felt sick to see the way the Jews were dehumanized and killed. I feel sympathy and maybe can start to understand the hardness that is at the core of many of them. The Jewish people and the country of Israel does not find many friends, and that can harden a heart.

I have also spent a lot of time talking with the Palestinians here. They are an indigiones people who have been displaced, who have been through war, who have been pushed aside and treated like an inferior race. I can understand the feelings of hopelessness, but also of rage and even hate by some. I am oversimplifying the situation here of course. A lifetime of writing could not do justice to the depth of it. There is certainly no way to escape it here. A Palestinian shopkeeper in Old Jerusalem shared with me just last week, as I was taking shelter in his shop in a sudden rainstorm. His family lost everything when Israel became a state. But then I see footage of the Israeli soldiers taking back the Holy Land, weeping at the western wall, and I once again see there are no easy answers.

Living here is so surreal. To think that there are pilgrims from three major faiths who come here daily - not only to find spiritual connection and enlightenment, but also to be tourists. There are people buying miniature menorahs and shot glasses with pictures of the western wall, while a war is being fought all around us.

What is interesting to note is that there are many people in this country of all faiths and origins who desire peace. Today in Jerusalem, the "city of peace," my family and I played at a large park near our home. There were American Jewish boys playing football, Arab families grilling meat for a Saturday picnic, Christians, Muslims, and Jews alike - all enjoying a warm and beautiful pre-spring day. On the way out with my boys I noticed a plaque overlooking the park that I had never noticed before - it read "For all the children of Abraham."

It breaks my heart to be here sometimes. To be in the middle of so much unrest and so much conflict between people. Not just between Palestinians and Jews, but among the Palestinians, among the Jews, between Jews and Christians and Muslims, between young and old. I know that peace can only truly be brought about by God's intervention here and I beg him to do so.