Sunday, December 30, 2007

New Year's, Football, and Winter Break

One great thing about the Holiday Season in America is that it comes in full force. The Season begins showing its face with Thanksgiving in late November and then there is a gradual increase in Holiday "spirit" up until Christmas. Because all things in America must come in abundance (or over-abundance) we follow Christmas with another week of relative "down-time" until New Year's Day. During this week, students enjoy winter break from classes, sports fans indulge in endless college football games and the beginning of professional football playoffs, and nearly everyone participates in some type of gathering to usher in the new year.
This year as my family recovers from our holiday "hangover" that included two weeks of visitors from America (which went by far too quickly) we find the culture of Israel only adds to this post-Christmas headache. First of all, for obvious reasons the country does not do much to acknlowedge Christmas day. (I actually had to skip classes to celebrate Christmas with my family.) Except for the Orthodox and Catholic Churches, the only areas in Israel acknowledging the season are found in some of the Arab neighborhoods. This came with a benefit of causing our family to purposely seek out the meaning of the Season and the joy of the season instead of taking it for granted but we will enjoy returning to a place that is a bit more "Christmas(y)".
The second thing adding to the headache is my inability to simply waste time watching college football. Granted, I usually don't care to watch Eastern Carolina play Billy Bob's University in the "'Preperation H' Medicated Cream Bowl" but not even having the choice is disapointing. Instead I tried to re-create the feeling by turning on the TV and watching Haifa Soccer Club play Negev-United in a much anticipated match. Unfortunately the match ended in a tie when the police fired tear gas into the crowd after the fans began throwing rocks at the referees. There was no reason for the outbreak of violence but in a post-game interview one fan explained that "this is the Middle East, that should be reason enough for violence". (The previous statement is not true- please disregard.)
If the lack of Christmas spirit and college football isn't enough, Israel provides the final "holiday buzz kill" by not even acknowledging New Year's Day. They are currently in the 3rd month of year 5969 so they have no need to celebrate the beginning of the "pagan" year. Yes, I have class on New Year's Eve and New Year's Day. Yeah!
So, this year while many of my American readers gather with friends on this New Year's Day watching football and eating meat and cheese mixtures spread on Ritz crackers, I will be sitting in class longing for my two day break from studies that comes in March in celebration of Purim (the events of the Book of Esther). So please enjoy the day and don't worry about us. The tomatoes and humus packed into Pita bread and the cricket match on the TV is a worthy consolation for missing New Year's Celebrations... it is also the source of the saying, "Next Year in America" !

Monday, December 24, 2007

God with us

I have litterally written and deleted and then rewritten this blog at least three or four times in the last hour. There is something so holy, and so profound about Christmas that I cannot find the words to express it. I cannot find the "angle" to approach it. There are just a few things that I need to say. Immanuel, means God with us. I will never experience that name for Christ in the same way again after this year in Israel. I have now seen the fish swimming in the sea of Galillee, walked up on the hills where he preached. I have been to Gethsemane where he prayed and cried out to God, I have sat in a 2000 year old dungeon like the one he sat in on the night of his arrest. I have walked on the Mt. of Olives, I have brushed my fingers over the Jordan, where he was baptized. In all the glitz and glam that surrounds Christ in this city, with the churches and the souvenir shops, this is the place where he lived and breathed. There is no getting around that. There are many "supposed" sites for his life and ministry but the point remains that He was WITH US. He is more real to me than he has ever been. Some days this is almost too much to bear. That God did indeed live among us and then die, for us.

Tonight on Christmas Eve, my family did not go to Bethlehem. We drove through Bethlehem, though crowded and noisy streets, resembling Times Square on New Years Eve, or the French Quarter for Mardi Gras. And we went to Beit Sahour, to a quiet field overlooking Bethlehem. A field that may well have been where the "shepherds were watching their flocks by night." And we sang with a small group of Palestinian Christians and their friends and family. We sang songs about those shepherds, and the angels who appeared to them. We sang songs about the baby born, and about the hopes and fears of all the world being met in Him, in Bethlehem. We sang about the Immanuel, the God who is with us.

We stood around a fire pit, with the stars appearing one by one as the sky got darker. The moon was full tonight and cast a bright light on the city. To be honest I didn't sing much, for the lump that was in my throat. But as we left that place I had a song stuck in my head. "Rejoice, rejoice! Immanuel has come to thee oh Israel!" I wish I could come up with more to say, that I could be more profound. But I can barely get out words - Christ has been given flesh and blood for me here in Israel. When I say "rejoice...he has come!" I believe it with a depth that I never did before. I rejoice and yet I weep - the God of the Universe becoming Immanuel is almost too much to get my mind and my heart around. I finish this with a line from my favorite Christmas song... "fall on your knees, and hear the angel voices. Oh night divine! Oh night divine!"

Checkout more thoughts on this night from Ryan at What's Wrong With the World.

Saturday, December 22, 2007

My Favorite Shrines

Living in the Holy Land brings a lot of excitements and disappointments. The excitement comes from throwing rocks at military vehicles and then running... (This is a joke; please do not try this on your trip here). What I meant to say was there is excitement from being in the place where so much incredible history took place. There are "holy sites” for Judaism, Christianity, and Islam. If you prefer "unholy" sites there are plenty of ancient ruins from pagan temples, Roman cities, and U.N. installations.

What some may find disappointing however, is the fact that at the location where these events took place, people have erected churches, mosques, and museums over the sites. Even if there is no historical validity to the claims at a certain location, the followers of that faith (especially the Christians I am sorry to say) designate a location as the actual place of its occurrence and they make the "Church of Something Happened Here". Pilgrims come from around the world to see these sites and if you take the time you can ignore the spectacle that is built all around the site and actually have a meaningful experience. But if you just come to see the landscape as it existed in ancient days you will be disappointed.

Some of the sites seem to me that they might be a bit over-spiritualized but who am I to judge? I am just here to give you my Top Ten List of most creative "holy sites".
10. The Church of the Multiplication of the Fish and the Loaves (This is actually an amazing building with mosaics on the floor that are worth a visit. It even is in the approximate region of this miracle, but the rock that marks the exact location where Jesus set the loaves of bread might be a bit speculative).
9. Masada- This is a fortress built high upon a cliff and served as a location for Hasmonean occupation, Herod's vacation palace, and later in history, Crusader and Roman fortresses. The location is most famous for the Jewish Essenes who held out there during the revolt around 70 AD. It now commemorates the strength of the people there who all killed their families before killing themselves so that the Romans would not get the pleasure of doing so.
8. The Dome of the Rock. This is the Muslim shrine built on the "rock" where Mohammed is said to have ascended. It just happens to also be placed on the Jewish temple mount and on the site where Abraham was asked to sacrifice his son Isaac.
7. The Dormitian Abbey. This is the German church that marks the place where Mary fell asleep (okay... where she died). The crypt is worth a visit so don't pass this by.
6. The church of the Flagellation (not flatulation). This is the location where Jesus is said to be handed over and scourged. This marks the beginning of the Via Dolorosa in Jerusalem (The "way of sorrows" that Jesus walked on the way to the cross. Recent archaeology unfortunately places this site on the opposite end of the city, which would completely re-draw the entire Via Dolorosa.
5. The Upper Room- this is the place where the disciples had the last supper with Jesus. If you ignore the fact that the building was built in the 11th century by the Crusaders you can really see why this site is so popular. If you prefer a more accurate location, go to the outdoor market called Mahane Yehuda and look for the man with a jar on his head. For five shekels he will take you to his version of the last supper room. Unfortunately it turns out that his room is the location where Jesus (a tour guide from Mexico) dined with his friends before heading back to Mexico.
4. The Church of the ascension.
It is not the fact that they believe that Jesus ascended here, it is the fact that 300 years later they discovered Jesus' actual footprint in the dirt and then made it into a concrete cast. (What luck!)
3. This is a tie. The chapel in the Armenian church containing the head of James the brother of Jesus and the chapel in the Church of the ascension containing the head of John the Baptist. If I ever lose my head I kindly request that someone build the "Church Where Ryan Lost His Head" in my honor... thanks.
2. The Church of the Kathisma (This is the church of the rock that Mary sat on when she rested on her way to Bethlehem. I guess she wasn't riding a donkey).
1. The Milk Grotto- this is by far the most creative holy site. It is here where there are two spots on a rock that is believed to be milk from the mother Mary that spilled while feeding Jesus.

Now that I have offended people from the world's three major religions I must also say that all of these places are worth visiting. Sometimes negative publicity is the best form of promotion!

Wednesday, December 19, 2007

The Week in Photos

Hebrew University is a huge campus with over 20,000 students so these photos do not give a comprehensive view of the campus, just the path I walk each day.















Sunday, December 16, 2007

Israeli salad

Right now we have guests in the house visiting us from California. Because of this, and because it is nearing the end of the semester for Ryan, things around here have been incredibly busy. Our blog entries (especially by Ryan) are coming at a slower pace at the moment. We are busy being tourists and showing our friends this beautiful country, and also are trying to introduce them to the foods and culture. I have been feeding them pita, tahina, hummos and Israeli salad every night since they came (per their request!). I thought that for those of you who would also like to walk on this journey with us, a recipe for Israeli salad would be a good way to help you to do just that. Go ahead and make up a batch, set it on the table with some pita and hummos, and enjoy your taste of Israel!

Israeli salad

3 small persian cucumbers diced in small cubes (do not peel)
3 tomatoes diced
1 red bell pepper diced
1 bunch of flat leaf parsley, chopped (1/3 cup)
1 clove garlic, crushed
1/2 lemon, squeezed over the top, and
a drizzle of olive oil or vegetable oil

Make sure the vegies are a very small dice. Toss together and serve - it will last several days in the fridge.

Tuesday, December 11, 2007

The Week in Photos

We had a long weekend due to Chanukhah so we packed up and left the country and headed for Jordan for a few days. So, the photos for this week are from our time in Jordan, in particular, in Petra. We will talk more about this trip later this week. For now, enjoy the following photos.

Entering Petra you must walk down a mile long stretch called the Siq. It is a narrow passage that winds down hill until the end when you see the Treasury peeking through the rocks. These structures are all carved into the rocks by the Nabateans thousands of years ago. During the Roman Empire's dominance in the 1st Century, they conqured the Nabateans and made Petra into a Roman City.

This is a view of the Treasury which was carved by Stephen Spielberg for a scene in "Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade".

This is a view of the scenery surrounding Petra.

After the Roman occupation and later, Crusader occupation, Petra was forgotten by all except the Bedouin people who moved into all the caves and lived there for hundreds of years before being relocated in 1985. Now the Bedouins thrive from the tourist industry in Petra.

Camels are everywhere in Petra and only the most shameless and cliche' tourists give in and pay to ride on these beasts of the desert.

This is the sunset over the mountains from the patio at our hotel. We were pleasantly surprised to find Christmas trees in our lobby and to find that Jordanian hospitality is the best we have seen in any country in the entire world.

This is a photo of some shameless tourists riding camels... oh wait, that is my family.

This is Daisy. She was my wife's smelly beast of the desert. She may be smelly, but she is an obedient and kind beast... I'm talking about the camel, not my wife.

Wednesday, December 5, 2007

Light of the World

Tonight my boys and I lit our first ever "Hanukia" (hanukah menorah) and took part in day two of the eight day Hanukkah celebration going on here in the Holy Land. No, we have not converted. But there is a chance that we will celebrate next year as well. Yesterday (Tuesday night) was the first night of Hanukkah. We were able to join a family at their home for the lighting of the first candle and the traditional celebrating that takes place. Actually many families do a full on party every single night of Hanukkah! Hanukkah is the celebration of several things. One, the defeat by the Jews of the Greek Leader Anticochus Epiphanes who defiled the temple and commanded the Jewish people to stop observing their faith. Two, it celebrates the rededication of the temple after that defilement. And three, it celebrates the miracle that took place for the rededication - where one days worth of oil burned for eight days - the time it took to prepare more "pure" oil.

So, in order to best understand this holiday, we walked over to our friend's house last night. Foods for Hanukkah are fried doughnuts and fried latkes (potato pancakes) in honor of the oil that kept the temple menorah burning. So we ate doughnuts and had tea. We sang songs and lit the candle in the window. The boys made their own dreidels, a toy that looks like a spinning top, and has four Hebrew letters on it, representing the sentence "A Great Miracle Happed Here." In every other part of the world other than Jerusalem, the sentence goes "A Great Miracle Happened There." Apparently the dreidel is a gambling game but the boys ran out of energy before they could teach us how to play. :) We laughed and debated (as good Israelis like to do) and of course I fed baby Ben.

As a believer, I found Hanukah to be incredibly illuminating (that is a bad pun). For starters, Hanukkah is a celebration of the light of Gods word and faith in the one true God overcoming darkness (the Greek emphasis on humanism). The Hanukia is to be set in the window so that all can see that light had overcome, and to remind everyone of God's intervention in the temple rededication. There are nine candle holders on the Hanukia. Eight for each of the eight days the fire burned. And one more, called the "Shamash..(or Servant)" candle, which is used to light the others.

We also were reminded of the time that Jesus was in Jerusalem during Hanukkah (Feast of Dedication) as recounted in John 10. Our friends believe that the time frame encompasses two chapters earlier, where Jesus declared "I am the Light of the World: he that follows me shall not walk in darkness but shall have the light of life." If the Jewish people were in the midst of celebrating the defeat of darkness by light, of Gods intervention into their lives by providing light for them, then this claim makes even more sense to me. It is amazing how much more I learn from Christ when I can learn from Him with Jewish ears.

I walked home into the dark moonless night with the boys. Candles burning in windows and doorways. I pondered the concept that Jesus, the Servant of all, is the light that touches each of our lives, and creates light for all the world to see. That He is the light that overcomes all darkness. And then tonight, we did our own celebration with a homemade hanukia in our window. We recited one of the three blessings spoken on Hanukah (we did English not Hebrew!). "Blessed are you, Lord our G-D, King of the Universe, who has given us life, and sustained us, and brought us to this day and Who is the Light of the World. "

Right now as I write the boys are getting on their pajamas. The candles are flickering in the window. And somehow December holds more meaning to me than it has in a long time, as we celebrate the Light of the World coming down among us. Happy Hanukkah!!

Tuesday, December 4, 2007

The Week in Photos

Before looking at the photos for this week look at 1 Samuel 23:29, 1 Samuel 24:1-2, Song of Solomon 1:14 which all refer to this location and then read Psalm 57 which was written here and possibly Psalm 42.

The strongholds of En Gedi.

A view of the Salt Sea (Dead Sea) from the waterfall in En Gedi. Across the sea you can vaguely see the Trans-Jordan Mountains (in Jordan).

One of many waterfalls along the "Road to Hana"... oh sorry, wrong trip, this is on the hike through the En Gedi National Park.

Another view looking back towards the Sea. Notice the contrast of barren landscape next to life. The words En-Gedi basically mean "water from the rock".

After hiking En Gedi, you can't miss a trip to the Dead Sea where you float without any effort. Don't forget your water shoes or else you will definitely not enjoy your time in the water because the salty beaches are hard and sharp.

After floating, rinse the salt off your bady with a shower from the hot sulphur springs. It feels good until you get the water in your eyes or mouth... and you will smell like eggs for a few days but that is not a problem, everyone likes eggs.

Saturday, December 1, 2007

Let's Make a Deal

One thing you should know about Israel is that very few things are absolute and very few things are the same way twice. You may see a fully stocked item at a store one day and return to the same store never to see the item again. You may get on the bus at 9:00 AM everyday for a week and then never see the bus at 9:00 AM again. You may go to a museum at 1:00 PM one day and go inside and then return the next day at the same time only to be told that the museum is closed. I actually had an argument (in Hebrew) about the closing time at the ancient ruins in Caesarea. I was holding the map and our tickets that said the exhibit is open until 4:00 on Fridays in November. The workers closed the gates at 3:00 PM and told me they close early on Fridays. I informed them that their own literature says they are open on this day until 4:00 PM and showed them the tickets. Because they know more Hebrew than I, they won the arguement and we had to leave that exhibit. Talk to anyone in Israel and they will tell you that it is difficult to know what you are going to get from one day to the next but if you are forceful enough you usually get your way.

It is this attitude that fuels the Israeli's love for haggling. At every outdoor market or small neighborhood shop, you are welcome to argue over the price. In the Old City, it is a basic requirement to haggle. The following is the dialogue you can expect when shopping in the Old City:

Storekeeper: You want to buy this hat? How much do you want to pay?

You: I'm not sure I want it....

Storekeeper: It is 50 shekels and that is a good price.

You: 50 shekels? Well, I guess that sounds fair.

Storekeeper: What? You think I am giving you a bad deal? Fine. 40 Shekels.

You: I didn't say you are ripping me off but 40 shekels does seem more reasonable.

Storekeeper: You still think I cheat you? Okay. 30 shekels and that is my final offer. This is how much I pay for it so I cannot possibly go lower.

You: I think you are giving a great deal but I am not even sure I want the hat. I will come back a little later.

Storekeeper: Fine. Give me 15 shekels and the hat is yours. You are a very difficult person. I do not know how I will feed my family with people like you.

At this point. Just pay the money, take the hat, and walk away guilt free. This is Israel and this is how you get a low price even if you never say a word. (It is worth noting that good looking woman like my wife get much better deals so guys should just stay out of the way). It is also worth noting that you may never get that same price again.

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

Philosophy and Photos

There is a question that philosophical types like to ask that goes something like this: "If a tree falls in the forest, and no one is there to see it, did it really fall?" Now, I like to amend that question a bit to go more like: "if a tree falls in the forest, and no one took a picture of it, THEN did it really fall?" I happen to place a lot of value on the photo. I honestly do not remember how I lived before I owned a camera, and I suppose I could ask, Did I truly live? :) When Ryan and I travel, we spend a lot of time taking pictures. It is actually difficult for me to enjoy myself until I have the required photos for wherever we are. For instance, when taking a trip to Paris, we needed to get the shot in front of the Eiffel Tower, the shot at the Louvre, and a good picture of gargoyles at Notre Dame - all while wearing a beret. In London there is Big Ben, a shot in a phone booth, a double decker bus and a good pub. When we went to the Arches National Park in Utah we raced from rock formation to rock formation just to get the photo. I dont actually remember seeing most of them, but I have photos to show for our race through the park. We have the picture of the family car going through a tree in the California Redwoods, one of Ryan in front of the Statue of Liberty, one of all the baseball stadiums we have seen to date. Okay, you get the point.

But the small tragedy of all of this - or perhaps comedy? - is that not only does the photo make the trips a reality, but it creates a NEW reality. As long as there is a picture, it doesnt really matter what actually happened. Let me explain. This last week, our family went to En Gedi and the Dead Sea - both close to home here in Jerusalem. The spectacular views, the sweet moments with our boys, the awe inspiring history of the places...these were not the focus for me. I wanted a picture of me floating in the Dead Sea, a picture of me with mud all over me, and a picture of my boys swimming under a waterfall. Our first stop was En Gedi, an area known for its beauty and described in the Bible in Song of Songs. We hiked up to the first waterfall, and I wanted to stop and get the boys in the water for their picture. Of course Ryan insisted we actually do the ENTIRE hike (which was only about a mile). Again this was not nearly as interesting to me as the photo op, but we marched on. Finally we got to the top, and while I fed Benja (the baby), all I could think about was the waterfall photo - the one consolation of course is that the photo of me feeding the baby was a photo op as well. When we got to the waterfall the boys were not in the least interested in getting in the water, as it was windy and quite chilly as well as in the shade. But we forced them in, and got our picture - it matters not that they both have little colds now. Because in 10 years we will look back at that happy moment when they were able to frolick under a cascading waterfall in En Gedi.

Then it was on to the Dead Sea, where upon walking into the water, my two older boys and I all cut up our feet on the sharp and very salt-crusted floor. We were not aware that we needed aqua socks but for future travellers, be warned. It was also very cold and the waves were fairly strong. My second son immediately jumped out and my first was a bit more of a trooper and went in for a minute. I had pretty much sliced open the top of my toes fairly deeply, but persevered despite the not so pleasant combo of salt water on my wounds. Again, I got the photo and thats all that matters. In 10 years we will look back at that idyllic afternoon, floating weightless in the Dead Sea.

And finally, we got our mud shots. Not to matter that the salts in the mud and the sulphur showers burned our eyes and exacerbated the cuts on my feet. I smiled and all that will remain of our time there are happy memories of therapeutic minerals and soft skin.

I really do love good photo ops. And the truth is, I was truly happy despite the pain and misery, knowing that I had my picture and therefore our pain would not be for naught. And I look forward to the many more photo ops that life sends our way.

Monday, November 26, 2007

The Week in Photos

The theme of the photos for this week is archaeology. We have been exploring some of the sites in Jerusalem and some outside of Jerusalem so here are some photos.

This is an aquaduct built by Herod the Great just before the birth of Christ. It had a precise slope to allow water to move 17 KM to the town of Caesarea.

This is a stadium also built by Herod in Caesarea. This particular one hosted chariot races and various gladiator games.

These are the pools of Bethesda where Jesus healed the cripple man in John 5. A pagan temple once stood here followed by a 4th century Byzantine church followed by a Crusader church from the 11th Century followed by dirt. The remains of all of the eras still stand here today.

This is part of the Crusader church at the pools of Bethesda.

These are part of the ruins from the temple mount during the second temple period. In year 70 AD the Roman Empire razed the temple and many of the stones from the destruction lay here today.


Outside the wall of Herod's temple mount.

These were actual storefronts on a street right outside the temple mount that were in use during the time of Christ. Jesus might have purchased tourist souveneirs from this very spot.

This is my son walking out of an acient "Mikveh". It was used for ritual purification in the Jewish tradition. This mikveh is right outside the temple mount so would have been used to cleanse those wishing to enter the temple. This is most certainly the predecessor to the Christian tradition of baptism.

These are kittens and they are not ancient but they are wild and found everywhere in Jerusalem.

Thursday, November 22, 2007

Happy Thanksgiving

Today we are celebrating Thanksgiving here in Israel. Since it is an American holiday it is just a normal day here for everyone with classes and work (I actually went to one class and skipped another in order to get home and be with the family). The local stores do provide turkeys this week due to the high number of Americans living here so we will actually have a fairly normal Kosher Thanksgiving meal. Tonight we will host 3 American students and 2 German students who want to see what this tradition is all about. We really don't care who comes, it is just a joy to be the host and to remember all the things to thank God for.
Perhaps this year we will borrow a prayer from the Jewish culture when they give thanks each week to God who provides the bread (or all their needs).

Barukh ata Adonai Eloheinu Melekh ha'olam hamotsi lekhem min ha-arets.
Blessed are You our Lord our God, King of the Universe, who brings forth bread from the earth.

We wish you all a Happy Thanksgiving.

Sunday, November 18, 2007

Bless The Name

One thing that I love about Jerusalem, is that every Friday morning when I go for my run (or walk to the coffee shop), the town is bustling with activity in preparation for the shabbat meals. People are filling the markets picking up last minute bottles of wine and bunches of flowers. And down every street you can smell the aroma of roasting meat and fish, garlic and vegetables. On Friday after sundown, the sounds of singing and laughter fill the night. This past Friday night, our family had the privilege of sharing a Shabbat meal with our landlord and her family. This was our first opportunity to be active participants in this age-old Jewish tradition. Our landlord lives near us so we walked to her house and were met at the gate by her husband and four children. Inside the long table was set with white linens, and on each end of the table was challah bread - set out on boards, with a cloth on top. It was explained to us that the challah represents two things - one, it represents the manna that God provided for the Israelites in their forty years wandering in the desert. On the morning before the sabbath, God would provide a double portion for them so that they would not need to gather on that day. That is why there are two plates of bread on the table, to represent the double portion. The coverings over the bread represented the dew that fell on the manna, and again is a reminder of Gods perfect provision for them each morning. The other thing that the bread represents, is the offering to God. We were told that since the destruction of the temple, there are no longer animal sacrifices to God, and the bread stands in the place of the sacrifice. They salt the bread at the beginning of the meal in the same way that animal sacrifices were salted in the temple.

Before sitting down, a blessing is said over the children - first the boys and then the girls. Then the father (head of the house) reads the last portion of Proverbs 31 to his wife - the part about a noble wife being worth more than rubies, etc. It is a beautiful beginning to the meal and a great reminder of the value placed on family in this culture.

The first thing that happened after sitting down is the wine/grape juice was poured into a kiddush (blessing) cup and the father of the house prayed and said a blessing over the wine. Everyone sang a song and then the cup was poured into smaller cups and everyone drank. After that we went and did hand washing. Our landlord explained that all week we bring forth the fruit of our hands. On this day, we wash our hands to symbolize that it is not ultimately us, but God who provides. On this day we are washing away the works of our hands and consecrating them to God. No one speaks after the hand washing until the bread is blessed and no one had a good explanation of why that is. We all mostly did a good job except for my 7 year old and 5 year old sat shaking with the giggles which I think hastened the father's blessing of the bread a bit. :) Next the bread is blessed, with salt shaken over it to consecrate it as a sacrifice, and then it is passed to eat and we all ate.

After the bread is passed, they do a blessing of God. Again it was a bit vague on what we were doing, since who are we to bless God? But ultimately, they said that to start a meal, they do not ask Gods blessing on the meal, but instead give blessing to God. They turn back praise and blessing onto God. After the meal they thank him for the meal, but they never ask for a blessing. I thought this was interesting since every night we say something to the affect of "bless this food to our bodies...".

The meal then goes about as normal - it is kosher, so roasted meats and lots of vegies and grains(no dairy). They have been on a warmer since the shabbat has begun, since they are not allowed to heat anything up anew once the sun goes down. During the meal we had great conversation, with the father asking the children to talk about what they had learned at synagogue that week. They definitely ask a lot of questions in this culture and force you to think! Again in this culture (typically), the abba (dad) is expected to be the spiritual leader of the family and to ingrain the teachings of the bible and torah into the children.

The meal ends with several readings and songs, extoling God for who He is and all He does. They asked my oldest son to read parts of the blessings, and I was able to read as well. One twist to the story though, is that although FULLY Jew, both the host family and their other guests, are also believers in Yeshua (or who we westerners would call Jesus). That is another story, but they believe Yeshua is indeed the One God promised to them as messiah. Most good Jews will not say the name of God, and so have other names for him. Tonight they referred to him as "Hashem" or "The Name." All night long we referred to "The Name." To finish off the evening, the abba asked my son to sing for us his favorite song, which he did. His favorite song has a verse in it that goes "Blessed be The Name of the Lord...Blessed be His glorious Name..."

Our first Shabbat meal was a good one. I hope to be a part of more of them (and not just because of the free food). I think there is a lot to learn from the traditions here. And what a wonderful thing it was to hear my son lift up his voice to Bless The Name!

Friday, November 16, 2007

Sabbath Made for Man?

Today is the beginning of the Sabbath for us here in Israel. From around 3:30 PM on Fridays through 6:00 PM on Saturdays most of Jerusalem comes to a stop as people take the day to reflect on God.
In Mark 2:27, Jesus speaks of the Sabbath and says, “Sabbath was made for man”. After taking a look at the customs on the Sabbath, I have come to the conclusion that this verse should read, “The Sabbath was made for teenagers”. Allow me to explain some of the customs to help illustrate my point.

• Beginning Friday afternoon, no one is allowed to work or even acquire any new knowledge. In other words, homework, studying, and even reading to gain knowledge is technically prohibited (Although you can learn from Synagogue).

• Friday evenings usually include hanging out with friends over dinner and an abundance of wine is often involved.

• On Saturdays, it is the norm to sleep in as long as one desires. It is the day of rest.

• No work can be done on Saturdays. This means no washing dishes or clothes, no “taking out the trash”, no “cleaning your room”, no washing cars, no cooking, and no yard work can be completed.

• No one is allowed to go to work on Saturdays or Friday Nights. These times are reserved for spending time with friends.

• Finally, to prove that the Sabbath is for teenage boys, a truly observant Jew will not shower or brush their teeth on the Sabbath.

So, all of you parents out there who struggle to get your teenage son or daughter to do any work, make sure they do not read the Talmud which gives the Rabbis explanations of how one is to observe the Sabbath. This will only give them a spiritual argument for laziness on the weekend. For all of you teenagers out there, just tell your teachers and bosses that it is against your belief in God to work on the Sabbath so you demand some religious tolerance. Shabbat Shalom.

For deeper thoughts on what the Sabbath means, please Click Here to read my more philosophical blog.

Monday, November 12, 2007

The Week in Photos

This week the photos are a bit less cliche' as these photos show things that most tourists would not take the time to see.

This is a view of Herodian located in the Negev Desert. It is a palace built into the cone of this mountain built by Herod the Great around the time of Christ. In order to build this palace on the mountain. Herod had to build the mountain. In other words, he moved a mountain so he could have a palace higher and more prominent than the temple in Jerusalem. Was Jesus referencing this palace when he said a small amount of faith will allow you to do greater things than moving mountains?

This is just one of many old cemetaries that are left scattered througout town. In this particular one they have discovered several "Iron Age"' tombs.

This hill is what is now called Mt. Zion but is not the Mt. Zion from King David's time. It is located on the Western edge of the old city and is now the location of the "Church of Dormition" and Jerusalem University College (an American Bible Institute).

This is the valley of Ge Hinom. During the 1st Temple Period it was the place of human sacrifices made by the pagans. Steep cliffs on each side mark the location of these sacrifices. The name of the valley became known as the valley of Gehena (which became a metaphor for hell). In other words, this is an actual photo of hell.

One of the cliffs in Gehena.

Olive trees are abundant here. Everywhere you walk, you will find olives growing.

I stumbled upon this film crew from India filiming a documentary in the city. See, it is just like living in L.A.

This is the inside of the "Shops in Mission Viejo". Oh wait, it is actually the inside of Jerusalem's largest shopping mall that includes three levels of shops, cafe's, and it even has a KFC, a Kosher Pizza Hut, and a Burger King. Despite what most of the images portray, Jerusalem is a modern city with several shopping malls, high rise buildings, and flushing toilets.

Finally, this is the view from a cafe at the shopping mall located right outside the Jaffa Gate in the Old City.

Saturday, November 10, 2007

The Case of the Shoe-Napper

Living in Jerusalem has its advantages. One advantage is that the weather is roughly the same as in Southern California except that, I am told, it rains here. Other than that we experience a very similar weather pattern. This time of year the daytime temperatures get up to 20 degrees Celsius and at night it drops to 10. (Okay, I am still American so the temperatures are 70 during the day and 50 at night in Fahrenheit).
Back to the point, the advantage of weather like this is that one can wear shorts (if you want to look American) and you can wear sandals everyday, which is very common here. This week someone stole my boys' shoes from outside our front door (in a locked building) so they have been reduced to wearing their sandals. Now on to the real point of this post.
Shoes. Someone who lives in our building of 12 units stole my boys' shoes. It is amazing how shoes can feel so personal. How can shoes being stolen make us feel so violated and disappointed? I honestly spent a day or two thinking about how awful it is to have shoes stolen. To make it worse, we just bought those shoes when we arrived in Israel so I feel that someone took 150 shekels from me. As I consider who lives in this building, I can assume (understanding what assuming will probably do to me) that these shoes were not stolen out of need but rather out of spite. Only 4 units in this apartment have children and ours is the only one with a boy over 7 years old so it is unlikely that someone needed a 7-year-old's pair of shoes. Also, we are the only ones in the entire building who are of a different religion than the others. Having said this I am sure we will find the shoes under a bed this week and I truly will fulfill the etymology of the word "ass-u-me", but if not, here is the lesson.
For several weeks now we have attended a Christian church here in Jerusalem that embraces the Messiah Jesus. This church and the people of this church face weekly dilemmas in following Christ. In the past month, the building was burned, one associated member was murdered in Gaza, and another person has his life under a serious threat in the West Bank. Each week we pray for these people, but more importantly, we pray for the ones who are doing these things. The church has made it clear that we will not hold grudges and that we will love and forgive those who burn our churches and take our lives. Nobody mentioned loving and forgiving those who take our shoes but after giving this some thought (and after examining the feet of every kid in the neighborhood) I decided that shoes probably apply in this scenario.
So, if someone stole my boys' shoes because they needed shoes, praise God that we could help them with their need. If someone stole our boys' shoes because they do not like those who follow the Messiah Jesus, then praise God that we are considered worthy of facing these challenges. If no one stole the shoes and they are lost under a bed, then praise God that we looked under the bed. And Praise God that we can wear sandals!

Thursday, November 8, 2007

Ode to the Pita

I think I am starting to get the hang of grocery shopping and cooking in Israel. Some simple rules are: you go to the fresh produce stands once a day and get the bare minimum that you need so that you waste nothing. But if you can go to the large downtown souk (pronounced "shook") you can get food at about half price. You dont buy bakery items at the grocery store...only at the bakery down the street or at the souk. You only buy your meat at the souk or at the very large supermarket near the mall, called Mega. Cheese is not really a good price anywhere, unless you want feta or goat cheese. "Salty cheese" is their funny version of chedder but it doesnt taste anything like chedder. You can go a couple miles downtown to the Russian Markets where they sell real chedder like we are used to in the states. Blue is for unsalted butter, and Red is the salted. There is one percent and whole milk only. There are about 100 types of yogurt. And if you see an American brand item that you like, make sure that you buy all of it that is in stock because you may never see it again. Oh, and most packaged goods here have been expired at least 9 months by the time it gets to us. You need to plan on paying a higher price for everything for a smaller quantity, and you have to just stop balking everytime you see a 30 as a price for cereal (30 shekels equals about 7 USD).

There are some things things about shopping and eating here that I really love. One of those things is the fresh juices. There appears to be only one brand of juice in the entire country and they only provide fresh squeezed juices at high prices. But they are sooo yummy. I also love that I can get huge tubs of hummos here for just a few dollars - and I am talking HUGE tubs. And I love that most everything at the souk is fresh and inexpensive. And I really, really love the pita here.

I can get a big bag of hot, piping pita bread for less than two dollars - 6 of them costs about 75 cents or 2.50 shekels. Because pita is such a good deal around here, we use it for everything. Below is a list of the great things you can do with a pita:

You can fill it with peanut butter and jelly
You can fill it with eggs and cheese
You can fill it with leftover salmon, or with tuna and tomato
You can use it for sloppy joes
or hamburgers (they call it a McKabob here)
You can fill it with hummos and tomato-cucumber salad
You can put cheese in a pita, grill it up and have it be a grilled cheese pita (creative name, ehh?)
You can cut it in half, broil it and tell your 5 year old that it is a very large English muffin (with jam)
(have I mentioned that all of this is authentic Israeli cuisine?)
You can make it into croutons
You can make it into pizza (kosher of course, with sauce and salty cheese)

You can probably get the point - since we are sort of on a budget here (retirement income) the economy of the pita is incredibly appealing to me. Not sure yet if the family has joined in my little love affair, but I am sure they will come around. If you have any other good pita recipes, please send them my way. We will try them (just so long as any other necessary ingredients can be found at the souk.).

Monday, November 5, 2007

The Week in Photos

Morning is the time to beat the crowds in the Christian Quarter of the Old City.

Morning prayers at the Wailing Wall

Empty street on edge of Muslim and Jewish Quarters in the Old City

You can skate in Jerusalem

Before skating, make sure you stop by the Kippa man and get a proper head-covering.

The Russian Orthodox Church on Mount of Olives seen from Haas Promenade near our house.

Spice bins at the Mahane Yehuda Market. Make sure you make a good "phlem" sound when pronouncing the "h" in Mahane.

Cheese... as if you can't read the signs

The gate and the car that Jesus used to enter the city. Actually this is the Zion Gate in a portion of the wall rebuilt in the 1540's. Notice the bullet holes throughout the wall that are remnants from the 1948 war between Jordon and Israel.

Jesus.... okay, this really isn't Jesus